cordless drill/driver recommendations?

**pelligrini** · 10-15-2008, 04:19 PM

I picked up a Dwalt 18v Drill/Driver and Impact driver set set early spring. I've been pretty pleased with them. I wish I would have gone Li-ion, but they weren't on sale. Later I got a circular saw and a snake lamp that uses the same battery pack. That's one thing I really look for in cordless tools, interchangability.

**tribalwind** · 10-15-2008, 04:28 PM

Yes thanks' . interchangeable batteries is an excellent point.
although, the only cordless thing i use is the drill !

i dont think i need a cordless circ saw,,
though.... i DO NEED A NEW CIRC SAW. !
thanks for reminding me ! any suggestions on a corded circ.saw would be greatly appreciated as well!

i'm really trying to take full advantage of this 30% deal through live.com/ebay as posted in bargain alerts...gotta compare bottom $ to amazon and other tool deal sites but so far this one is tops!

**pelligrini** · 10-15-2008, 04:46 PM

I prefer not to use a cordless circular saw, but they sure are handy if the need comes up. I still consider them a pure luxury item.

**Thalermade** · 10-15-2008, 05:07 PM

there was just a thread this past week. I think you will find the info you need in it.

http://bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=41268

have fun deciding
Russ

**docrowan** · 10-15-2008, 05:08 PM

You can see my post on the B&D 18V cordless drill in this same Tool Talk discussion. As noted, my choice was heavily influenced by the B&D factory outlet about 2 miles from my office, but I'm still pleased with it. I can post pictures if needed.

I really like my Ridgid circular saw available at HD. I use a saw board and cutting grid to slice up sheet goods and it does a very good job. It comes with a stock thin kerf blade that leaves smooth cuts. The base shoe is very smooth and accurate riding against the saw board.

IMHO, the Ryobi circular saw is junk. The shoe is fragile, I sprang mine with one drop and there was no repairing it. Took me a while to figure out why it jerked and snarled every time I was running against an edge guide.

**tribalwind** · 10-15-2008, 05:28 PM

russ, thanks!
agh, i shouldve searched more before posting *thwap*

and thank you chris.. i like my rigid 6" ROS.
and yea,besides my BT3 i dont care for ryobi-anything really...

i'll probably get more bosch!

**iceman61** · 10-15-2008, 09:29 PM

I'm a remodeling contractor & use a circular saw, reciprocating saw, hammer drill all the time. These are the top things you don't want to buy cordless. Drills are fine but the afore mentioned tools are better as corded. Don't waste your money on cordless unless it's a drill/driver. I can't speak for the impact drivers as I have not had the chance to try one out yet.

**leehljp** · 10-15-2008, 10:32 PM

Originally posted by iceman61

I'm a remodeling contractor & use a circular saw, reciprocating saw, hammer drill all the time. These are the top things you don't want to buy cordless. Drills are fine but the afore mentioned tools are better as corded. Don't waste your money on cordless unless it's a drill/driver. I can't speak for the impact drivers as I have not had the chance to try one out yet.

I can't say this strongly enough: Impact Driver owners don't proclaim IDs so that we can be macho and the "most tools owned" person. It's not about adding a tool. It is NOT about the brand. The ID is in a different league in driving screws compared to a drill driver.

This is not about pushing a tool. It is your choice what you buy. But this is about informing the tool using public from a user's experience that the ID is NOT a drill/driver, and a drill driver is NOT an ID. They don't operate the same! The end results for driving screws are as different between them as night and day. They just look similar.

The one advantage of a drill driver in driving screws is where a very delicate clutch is needed to keep screws from seating too firmly. But in this case and my experience, only expensive industrial drill drivers have this predictable sensitivity in their clutch systems. Most people don't need that kind of sensitivity, but I have on occasion and pro users do too, especially around electrical work. IDs are designed for wood for the most part and do an exemplarily job at this point in comparison.

**LCHIEN** · 10-16-2008, 12:08 AM

Impact drivers are close cousins to impact wrenches, the type professional mechanics use for auto mechanics. They both use a rotation mass (the hammer) which periodically rotates the bit. his transfers the hammer energy into the bit without tearing the tool from your hand in either case.

If you have a conventional motor driven drill driver with a high amount of torque and try and turn a very tight bolt or screw, it will rip the tool right from your hand. But with a impact driver/wrench it will put the energy into roatating the fastener and not into turning the tool body.

The prime difference between a impact driver for wood screws and mechanics are probably the total torque available (mechanics impact wrenches go up to 100's of foot pounds, for the 1/2" drive ones, anyway) and the cordless ones for screwdriving produce hundreds of Inch-pounds, so about 10:1 difference. The other differences are power source - compressed air vs battery, and the means of connecting to the fastener. The mechanics tools typcially have a 1/4, 3/8", or 1/2" square drive to accept specially hardened hex-sockets and the scew driving ones have the 1/4" hex socket with quick locking groove, to accept the common 1/4" hex screw-driving bit sets.

Now I can and have use those 1/4" hex shaft to square socket adapters to drive standard or impact sockets with my impact screw driver. I wouldn't go over 3/8" square drive but I've used them to assemble and disassemble steel stands using lots of 1/4-20 hex-head bolts and nuts. Works pretty well.

**jabe** · 10-16-2008, 06:05 AM

I have a 10 yr. old DW 14.4V DD and a 4 yr. old Hitachi 12V DD, I find myself grabbing the Hitachi 12V first all the time. It's light and does the job. I have 2 Makita 12V ID and like it cause of it's weight & power. Assembling cabinets all day with a heavy 18V DD or ID will take a toll on your arms & hand. For wood working a 14.4V or 12V DD or ID will do the job. I got my Makita 12V batteries rebuilt by Primecell, they replace the batteries with a higher amp ones so they hold the charge longer and adds more power. Two -12V batteries rebuilt with shipping to Hawaii cost $ 109.00. If your cordless tool is in good shape, consider a battery rebuild.

**LarryG** · 10-16-2008, 07:47 AM

I have this Makita 14.4v DD/ID/flashlight set and really like it -- and that price is a pretty long deal as this set is usually in the $225 range. (I paid ~$170 plus tax during a closeout sale at Home Depot; at the time I already owned a Makita 14.4v DD alone and wanted a second one to cut down on bit-swapping. I viewed the included ID as a nice bonus.) I have not owned an 18v tool but agree with Jabe that this 14.4 size seems ideal for the shop, and is a size and weight that can be easily tolerated all day.

On the matter of DD vs. ID, they ARE dramatically different tools. I personally find an ID okay for construction-ish stuff like driving deck screws or mounting stuff to the shop's walls. But for woodworking projects and jig building, I much prefer a standard DD.

**atgcpaul** · 10-16-2008, 08:09 PM

After a lot of research, I bought the Makita LCT300 kit. I also got a rebate for a free
3rd battery.

I charged the batteries for the first time more than a month ago. This weekend
on the same charge, I installed new closets in my master bedroom and there
was no lack of power. My wife helped me out with the install and when she
handed me the drill, she commented, "Wow! That's light!"

Next week I'm starting on a new deck addition. I can't wait!

The impact driver can be pretty loud in confined spaces, though.

Paul

cordless drill/driver recommendations?

cordless drill/driver recommendations?

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