New Shop setup

[BigguyZ]

OK, so I have a new garage that will become a new shop. I don't have the $$$ or time to do a complete remodel of the space prior to moving in, but I do want to do as much as I can do to prep the space.

Right now, it's a 2 car garage with open walls. I'm thinking of doing the following before I make the main move and bring things in:
-The garage is sunk in somewhat, so there is cinder block around the perimmiter of the wall base. Some of the mortar in the joints has deteriorated, and let's water if when it rains. I want to patch that as best I can, and use the water lock paint to keep the dampness from coming in.
-I want to insulate the walls and ceiling (there's a half-story attic area above the rafters that I'll use for storage). It'll cost about $350 or so in insulation, form my rough estimates. I'll just use batt insulation for now.
-I don't care about drywalling the space, but I don't necessarily want the exposed insulation. I figure I'll go with a cheap wood paneling of some sort to cover the walls.
-I really like the epoxy floor look, so I plan to do that as well.

The electrical to the garage is crappy- a single 15a line. I need to take a good look, as the wire seems like it may be high enough gauge to bump up to a 30a breaker and a sub panel. But otherwise, I may want to try to pull the wire and run something larger. My only concern is that the cost may be prohibitive. If that's the case, I may do without for now. Otherwise, I'll probably try to upgrade that as well.

Once those steps are done, I'll start installing some wall cabinets and other storage. Then I'll move my mobile workbench and mobile table saw station. Next, the larger machinery that's on mobile bases as well- RAS, BS, and Lathe. Finally, I'll move all of the rest of my crap.

Is there anything I'm missing? Are there any other suggestions you'd have in setting up the new space? I know I'll adapt as I go, but I want to make it was easy as possible, so I want to address the easy prep work before clutering up the shop with tools...

Thanks!
Travis

[BearPipes-1]

While I don't think pegboard is an ideal wall covering, it's certainly more immediately useful than either exposed insulation or wood paneling.

[dbhost]

Are we talking a detached garage? If so, if it is allowed, go with 1/2" ply or OSB for the walls. And if you can afford to, bring in as much electrical as you can NOW. MUCH easier than later (that is my current struggle...)

[Eric]

I'd forget about the epoxy floor and put that money into electrical. You can have a wood shop with normal concrete floor, but can't run machines if you don't have power.

I'd also cover the walls with 1/2" plywood, or 7/16" OSB. Both will allow more freedom of placing things where you want them without having to worry so much about hitting a stud. Plus you're less likely to put a hole in plywood than you are sheet rock.

So, I would patch the blocks so water isn't seeping in, do the electrical, insulate, sheet the walls, and then do the epoxy floor.

30 Amps requires a 10 gauge wire and it would surprise me if they put in 10 gauge wire and then put a 15 amp breaker on it.

[avbclark]

I would suggest re pointing the outside and inside of the cinder block wall before you put anything on it. That will be the best way to keep the water out. It is not fun, and takes time, but is very doable by anyone with some patience. There is lots of advice on line. In my experience the best way to do it is gradually. Do part of the wall at a time. Remove the decayed mortar. Replace it and the do the outside of that section.

Good luck, and congratulations on the new shop.

[capncarl]

The inside of a block wall is the wrong place to seal a leaking wall. Seal the inside and you are guaranteed a mess. Start on the outside.
capncarl

[JR]

+1 on electrical. You will want to pull a 220v line, even if you don't populate it now. Of course, with the walls open, now is the time to wire outlets.

If it's going to bee a woodshop, I'd want something other than concrete on the floor. There must be a Murphy's law corollary for the odds of a chisel falling blade side down compared the hardness of the floor. I'd also want a level floor in order to simplify bench setup. IOW, a wood floor would be awfully nice.

I know you have a lot on your plate to get this place going, but spending some time to make a good guess at the eventual layout, and putting the infrastructure in now, will save you much pain and anguish down the road.

JR

[BigguyZ]

The area where the leak is coming in is along a conrete walkway. It's actually on the opposite side of where the shop part will be (half woodshop, half garden/ car parking). But anyways, the outside of the block is actually below the level of the conrete walkway... so patching the outside isn't really feasible unless I jackhammer it up, and I really don't want to do that at this point.

I'm planning on using hydrualic cement for the larger cracks, and then epoxy patch for the smaller voids and cracks. I think between that and cleaning out the gutters for the garage (the gutters are clogged and filled to the brim with dirt), that'll abate the moisture issue.

I defintely won't go with pegboard. I'm thinking more of a french cleat system that I can screw right into the ply or OSB. 1/2" sounds about right.

The cable coming out of the conduit that runds from the house to the garage is much larger than a standard 12/2. I'm wondering if it could be 12/3, and there's two circuits sharing a neutral and a ground. Hopwever, there's only one breaker assigned to the garage.

What would you say would be minimal in the garage? If it is indeed two circuits at 15A now, is that enough? If I have the electrical pulled to as a sub panel, how many amps do I want at a minimum? 30? 40? 60? What gauge wire do those require?

Thanks for all the feedback! I can't wait to get started on it, but sadly I'm still in the process of moving, then I have to begin work on my old apt so it's ready to rent for August (I moved from a duplex I own to a single family). But I'm glad to have everything planned out now, so I can get to it and have everything moved in and set up before winter... That reminds me- what's the most space-conscious/ efficient way to heat a garage woodshop?

[L. D. Jeffries]

Good luck on your "new" shop. Your plan sounds good, the only thing I would change is do away with the dry wall. First of all in a shop it doesn't take a large thump with a piece of wood to blow a hole in the wall, secondly, I paneled my shop with inexpensive 1/2 chipboard smooth side out. That way if needed you can drive a screw ANYWHERE to hang something, and chipboard takes paint well if you want "dress" up the place.

[BigguyZ]

Yeah, I was torn about that. But drywall is actually cheaper than the chipboard by a fair amount. I already purchased the drywall, but I guess I can always return it. But I do like that look.